Saturday, 15 August 2009

Schnitzels and tours in Berlin

We had to put schnitzels somewhere in the title because for our long weekend in Berlin (while Mel and David were on their big Europe honeymoon) we ate more schnitzels than we have since we arrived in the UK!

Mel and David arrived in the big smoke from Sydney, early Monday morning on our doorstep in London (and yes, we were still asleep... Had no idea Heathrow and London traffic could be so efficient on a Monday morning!). They came ready to take on Europe and also loaded with Aussie goodness!


Mel and David toured London till Thursday night when the four of us set off to catch an evening flight to Berlin.

Mel and David at Somerset House

Mel and I at the Millennium Bridge with St Pauls Cathedral in the background

I have been to Berlin before, about 7 years ago now, so nothing was very familiar. Though it was still the safe, clean and efficient place one would expect of Germany. We booked an apartment for a few nights in Mitte, the very central and very chic suburb of Berlin.

The apartment building with the TV Tower to the left

Geoff and Mel waiting at the foyer of the apartment block

Chic and lively Mitte

Inside, the apartment looked straight out of an IKEA catalogue. But it very cosy and comfortable and so close to everything.


It was on the 20-something floor with views across the city and also to the TV Tower (which looks like a big golf ball on a tee).



As we arrived late, we grabbed some currywurst (sausages in tomato sauce and curry) for dinner and had an early night. The next morning we found a tiny Italian coffee bar which served up some nice breakfast and lattes.


We then took to the streets to find the free 3-hour walking tour highly recommended by many friends back in London. I made a bit of a mistake with directions to the meeting spot, so we ended up instead in what looked like an previously abandoned building site with rusty tin sculptures and loads of graffiti everywhere.


This would be the first, of many encounters with the street art culture of Berlin. My German friend Martin, who lived in Berlin for quite awhile, told me about Berlin's creative scene. He mentioned that Berlin was inexpensive to live, and there was a big creative scene which has attracted loads of designers. The architecture of Berlin can often be dark and utilitarian, so I wondered if graffiti was a creative response to the stark visual landscape of public spaces.

We spent the rest of our first full day in Berlin wondering the streets.


This included doing a bit of shopping and passing the car department store! Yes, Germany is one of the best makers of cars and one can shop for a car like department store shopping. It made me miss my VW Golf lots!


We then found our way to the famous Jewish Museum. A controversial piece of architecture by renowned architect Daniel Libeskind. The architecture of the building was truly arresting.

Interior of Jewish Museum

The Garden of Exile

But the museum has often been critised for its lacking narrative between architecture and museum content. We could see why after spending hours in the museum and not getting anywhere near the stories of the Holocaust- what we believed should have been prominent for education and awareness to its international audience.


By the time we got there, we had already skipped about half the museum, and were tiring from walking and the heat. Berlin had definitely entered its summer for 2009.

We exited the museum a little overwhelmed, and caught a cab to one of Martin's pub/cafe/restaurant recommendations. The taxi pulled up at a neat little corner pub called Botzow-Privat.


Martin says that Botzow-Privat is a "typical East Berlin" pub and it had loads of character and very friendly staff. The massive schnitzels revived our tiredness.


The perfect place and way to end the day.


On Saturday we found our way to the walking tour location and had an awesome time with Adam, our American guide who is living and loving Berlin. He was a wonderful storyteller and took us through the Jewish Memorial site, a massive field of undulating grey cement blocks, so big it takes up an entire block. Most visitors to Berlin cannot miss it- this was the idea of the memorial, we learnt.


On the other side, a sandy carpark marks the exact site of Hitler's bunker, where he also committed suicide. We took a snapshot to remind ourselves where we were standing.


We then toured some communist propaganda paintings.


And the remains of the Berlin Wall, almost all gone now throughout the city.


After a few more sites, like Checkpoint Charlie.


We completed the tour at the Berliner Dom.


Geoff and David were keen to lie in the sun and read, so Mel and I took a train to another part of town to visit the flea markets. It was lovely strolling in the sun, browsing antiques and 2nd-hand stuff. We spent ages in this button stall (as fashion designers do) and picked up a few cool things.


For dinner on our last night in Berlin, we chose off Martin's list of wonderful places to eat. We chose Alpenstueck and again took a taxi arriving at a white-washed corner restaurant in the middle of residential Berlin. It was a pristine white restaurant, with checked linen and a wall of stacked logs. We got seated in a cosy booth, but it became not so cosy after a small Bucks night required our attention. Well, in particular mine (Mel was so lucky she wasn't sitting on this side!). The Buck was getting married soon and wanted as many red lips and signatures on his white tee, so I obliged.


After lipstick-on-the-tee they were off and we enjoyed our final Berlin meal of schnitzels (again).


We flew out of Berlin early Sunday morning and arrived back in London at around lunch. After something to eat from our local Marks and Spencer, David, Mel and I headed to the markets in East London, including the famous Spitalfields Markets. The weather was so stunning for London we couldn't stay inside all day! It was like going from one creative city to another. The markets are definitely where all the action is in London on a Sunday.



We shopped loads and soaked up the atmosphere till about 7pm. It was time to head home for dinner with Geoff (even though David was already eating at the markets) and collapse after a wonderful long weekend.

Wednesday, 29 July 2009

Good coffee in London

Ok, ok the title might seem like a bit of a contradiction after all the whinging Aussies in London do about the coffee here, but it's been awhile since we have been here and our list of decent coffee places is growing. For those coming over to visit, holiday or live, here's an essential list to finding good coffee in London (but for some management of expectations, it probably will taste a bit different from home).

Monmouth Coffee, Borough Markets and Covent Garden
We have to say this is our favourite coffee bean and one of our fave places to grab a good latte. Always so consistent in taste, stronger caffeine hit and really smooth froth. Have never had burnt milk a Monmouth which is a frequent crime of the chains (Costa, Nero, Starbucks etc.). Monmouth roast their own coffee which come from about a dozen places around the world including Africa and South America. Many other good coffee places around London use Monmouth's coffee (and I have forgotten which ones but do remember speaking to some baristas who mentioned they were using Monmouth). I love the Borough Market Monmouth. Have taken loads of Aussies here (even my bro David, who never drinks coffee but actually liked the coffee here- Mel's latte of course!). Have even taken some English and European friends here for meetings (designers love the shabby chic-ness). Covent Garden is always packed, but great for t/a before/after/during shopping the boutiques.

Cost per latte: £2.30
Size: "Normal" Oz sized take-away, but if you have in it's more a large Oz size.


Grace, St Pauls (links to Twitter)
We are pro-supporting local businesses (London is heaving with chains... food, cafes, restaurant, coffee places) and this is our "local" in the true sense of the word. We go to the sunny corner store, Grace, pretty much everyday to visit "coffee guy" and "coffee girl" (whom "coffee guy" recently recruited). Coffee is a pretty serious matter here. You can only get take-away (have to say don't quite support the polystyrene cups but the things you do for a decent latte!) and "coffee guy" maintains quite a lot of consistency, never burns the milk and gives us a strong dose of espresso delivered all in British earnest. There's a massive Gaggia, and you can choose medium, dark or organic roasts. You can also pick up some neat homemade treats, which we find really hard to bypass on a daily basis while waiting for our coffee.

Cost per latte: £1.50 (did we mention what a bargain this was for great coffee?)
Size: More a medium-large Oz size t/a



Nude Espresso, Spitalfields
Believe it or not, an English friend introduced me to this place. Lovely, bright and red, Nude does great coffee with a New Zealand smile. Located close to many design companies I know, Brick Lane, Spitalfields Markets and in vintage shop central it's also a great people-watching joint!

Cost per latte: £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in



Fernandez and Wells
In SoHo, F&W has been the place of quite a number of meetings for me. There are a few locations within walking distance, but I quite like the one of Beak Street (which is pictured below). Long wooden benches make good use of the small space, but that doesn't quite deter long meetings at F&W!

Cost per latte: Around £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in



Flat White, Soho
I think Flat White is the most famous among the Aussie community. Alongside Monmouth, it has one of the bigger cafe spaces and stepping inside makes us feel like we are back in Paddington, Sydney. It has such a similar atmosphere and interior and often makes me homesick (like it did last weekend when we were there). Flat White also serves great Aussie cafe food for breakfast and lunch.

Cost per latte: Around £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in or t/a


Lantana, Fiztrovia
Have not been to Lantana yet, but am meeting a friend there next week. My Aussie-living-and-working-in-London friend Myles, who authors her own food blog, Gourmet Safari (and here's a link to her own London coffee post) has been there and notifies me that Lantana do banana bread- a rare find in London! Can't wait to try Lantana coffee and banana bread next week. The cafe also does a neat blog called Scrambling Eggs.

Cost per latte: Around £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in

Some final words on good coffee in London....
You might have noticed that I have described coffee cup sizes. This is because most coffee you buy in London will come as massive servings (it makes Oz coffee look like babycinos for kids). While good value, most Aussies in London would choose quality over quantity any day. If you must go to a chain, we think Eat or Apostrophe do OK.

Also, most UK places don't know what a flat white is, so we'd recommend going for a latte (as cappuccinos are usually served with far too much bad froth).

As a final point to this post, some great person has plotted some good coffee places in London and around the UK. Great for all the UK travels. You can view the Google map here.


Some additional links on the subject matter of coffee in London:

Luke Bozier's blog post, 9 July 2009
In London Aussies and Kiwis do it better (coffee that is)

TimeOut London, 31 July 2009
Raising the bar - the independent cafes and Antipodean attitudes regenerating our coffee culture

Saturday, 27 June 2009

Istanbul, the layered city

It’s a modern, bustling metropolis and truly understands how much tourism contributes to the local economy. Any tourist is warmly welcomed to Istanbul, from hotel owners and concierges, to the taxi drivers, to the café and restaurant staff. The locals love their country, the culture and their football, and are keen to show the world just how Istanbul is.

First colonised by the Romans, Istanbul has a long and interesting history including numerous names. The city was first called Byzantine in 667 BC and then known in 330 as Constantinople ("City of Constantine") named after its Emperor. After several other designations, the city became known as Istanbul, but it was only in 1930 where the name was officially adopted.

Today Istanbul’s history is clearly evident through its historic sites like Hagia Sophia and Sultan Ahmed Mosque (or Blue Mosque) which flank the city. Both mosques are enormous in size and reflect the many cultures and religions which once inhabited the city through their layered interior. Istanbul is also a model for a modern Muslim society and has become quite the melting pot for cultures straddling both the European and Asian continent on either side of the Bosphorus Strait.

Hagia Sophia

We arrived in Istanbul before lunch at the Asmali Konak Hotel. We had a 20-minute chat over tea and coffee with the owner who gave us insider tips on how not to get ripped off in shops, restaurants and suggestions for things to do in Istanbul. We were then informed we would have to move hotels due to a major water leak which we sighted in what would have been quite a lovely room. Instead, we were taken to the plush, 4-star Aruna Hotel down the road. The hotel was brand new and while it didn’t have the character of Asmali, it had more luxuries such as a Jacuzzi in our bathroom.


Upon arriving at Aruna, we had another chat with the owner, who also handed us glass beads which look like eyes, a Turkish token which can be seen everywhere and people carry them to ensure someone is safely watching over them.

By the time we freshened up and took to the streets, it was time for a very late lunch. We took a tip from the locals at Asmali and visited Doy Doy, climbing to the fourth floor terrace with stunning views of the Blue Mosque and very cheap and very good food.


We were eating at 5pm when prayer time came around and the chants from the mosque bellowed through the air (see for yourself by clicking on the video below!).



In Istanbul, like an other Muslim country, prayer time happens 5 times a day. The first starts at 5am (and yes, clearly heard from our hotel due to its close proximity to the centre of the city). The last happens at 5pm. Until you hear the chants across the city, you wouldn’t guess 99% of Istanbul is Muslim. It is a relaxed society and very Westernised. Istanbul’s modern take probably has to do with a number of factors including its layered history, its geography straddling both Europe and Asia, and its intent to demonstrate to the world how a liberated Muslim society would look like. Istanbul is a melting pot of Eastern and Western cultures and many of the locals we got to meet had partners from around the world such as Asia and Australia.

Our hotel sent us on a free half-day tour on our second day in Istanbul. We wondered for three-quarters of the tour why we were getting the special treatment, and when we visited our final destination, a carpet showroom, we knew we had become part of the selling process for Turkish carpets! But till then we had quite a good time with our lovely guide and driver who chauffeured us around Istanbul with our first stop at the Egyptian (or Spice) Bazaar.


Bazaars are wonderfully colourful markets constantly full of people browsing textiles, glass beads, piles of nuts, nougat, mosaic lamps and mounds of spices.


The rain started to come down and we decided to forgo the planned Bosphorus cruise and spend time touring Istanbul by car, visiting the waterfront suburbs and bridges. Back in town we walked through the Blue Mosque, Artisan Bazaar and ended our tour with apple tea on the terrace of the carpet showroom with views across the harbour and toward the Blue Mosque.


We politely declined a carpet purchase and breathed easy when we were left with the rest of the day to ourselves!

The sun was now out in full force and we had a lovely lunch while laughing over our naivety in accepting a free tour (we had honestly thought the hotel was trying to apologise for moving us from our first choice!).


As the sun was out we ventured into the hive of activity between the two mosques. We found our way to the Yerebatan Sarayi (or Basilica Cistern ) the underground cistern which used to irrigate the gardens of Byzantine. Our guidebook notes that there are as many as 60 of these underground cisterns in Istanbul, but Yerebatan Sarayi is the largest of all.


The Yerebatan Sarayi constantly drips water as you enter the underground forest of marble columns and arches. From below, the dim red lights illuminate the eerie fish that swim at your feet. Yerebatan Sarayi is one of the most unique sights in Istanbul, and some may recognize it from the James Bond movie, From Russia with With Love.

Popping up from underground we found ourselves in the sun and among the tourists which swarmed around the Hagia Sophia. To be honest, we were a bit put off my the number of people around the mosque and hesitated to visit, but making the executive decision to brave the crowds, we would have severely regretted not seeing one of the most interesting places of worship in the whole of Europe.

The mosque was constructed Before Christ and was originally a Christian Church. One can view the hints of this in the art that still remains on the ceiling and walls, half covered by Muslim art and scriptures. Sofia is enormous, but when you look at her detail, the layers become apparent and absolutely fascinating to consider how the city and its people have changed over the centuries.


Just up the road from the mosques and cistern is the Grand Bazaar. Another Bazaar which is bigger than the Egyptian Bazaar and a little more expensive.



We toured the numerous stores, picked up a few things (like apple tea) and got roped in (again!) to a carpet sales room only because we were admiring the Australian flag which was being woven as a carpet out the front. We enjoyed more apple tea with the owner and again declined a carpet purchase. We felt like we were now experts at the game!


We wondered back into town and through the peaceful Gülhane Park before heading toward our hotel to find dinner.


We chose the Rumis Café for dinner. We learned that the place was new and had only just opened. We found the staff wonderfully accommodating, even getting a lesson behind the bar on how to make Turkish coffee. Turkish coffee is a strong, dark brown liquid which smells like a wood fire. It was made and enjoyed by the Ottomans who once inhabited Istanbul. We purchased some coffee and later went back to the Egyptian Bazaar to get a copper coffee maker (which we are yet to try out back in London!).



Old Egyptian Bazaar

After dinner, we booked a treatment at a hotel spa. We started in a steam room and then had a body scrub and massage on marble in the middle of main treatment room by a burly Turkish bloke that didn’t speak much English. We finished our treatments wrapped in towels sipping apple tea.

The next day we did a full day tour which included a cruise on the Bosphorus. Unfortunately the first half of the tour felt like a bit of a waste. It took ages to co-ordinate tourists on the buses and we were taken to a look out point with a cable car ride down to the street level which wasn’t all that exciting, but we did enjoy the views.


We finally got to the cruise and this really made up for the disappointing morning. We had a small-ish boat with only about a dozen people. The day was clear and sunny and the cruise went for about 2 hours on the blue waters of the Bosphorus. We saw palaces such as the Ciragan Palace, fortresses such as Rumeli Fortress, bridges, boats, mansions and the metropolis of Istanbul from the water.

Bosphorus Bridge

Ciragan Palace

The Sultan's Winter Palace

View of Bebek from the harbour

Hopping off the boat, we decided to visit the chic suburb of Bebek. On our private tour, we had driven through Bebek and our Wallpaper Guide had recommended Mangerie, what we came to recognize as the Bathers Pavilion of Istanbul. Mangerie is on the top floor of a rather non-descript building, so it was not easy to find, but the café had wonderful food, coffee and views! While the interior was really nice, we were lucky enough to score a table on the terrace with views to the water and down to the boutique-lined street.


We met another couple from London who had walked to Mangerie from a few suburbs away, so after lunch we decided to walk part of the way back toward the city, passing beautiful parks, fishermen and street markets. We hailed a cab when we began to tire and were thankful we did as going through the roads near the football stadium was a bit intimidating. Crazy football fans had taken over the streets and let off small fire crackers in anticipation of the game.

We arrived back at the hotel for our last night in the city and took a recommendation from the concierge to dine at the local fish restaurant just a few minutes walk down the road. We had to enter through the restaurant kitchen to get to our table! We enjoyed the infamous sea bass and lovely Turkish sweets which I have not mentioned that we had been indulging in throughout our trip, along with the smoky Turkish coffee.

We were sad to leave Istanbul. It certainly was intriguing and quirky. Things happen that make you wonder what really goes on in this city under the colourful tourist sheen. A first brief visit gives you that small taste and sense that there are many other layers to be explored. That’s the magic of Istanbul and it makes you promise to be back someday for more.