Showing posts with label st pauls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label st pauls. Show all posts

Sunday, 21 February 2010

Christmas in Malaga, Spain

It never ceases to amaze us that in under 3 hours from London, we can be dropped into an entirely different culture and the weather can change dramatically.

So, OK for most of our time in Malaga, a port town on the south coast of Spain, the rain fell, but we did see some beautiful sun and relished the much milder winter temperatures of around 15 degrees Celsius (for the record, Winter 09/'10 in the UK has been the coldest it has been in three decades).

Snow at St Pauls Cathedral, London

Our Xmas '09 break was to escape chilly and snowy London for some R&R and we were quite happy to stay put in Malaga, the main gateway to the beachy Costa del Sol (meaning Coast of the Sun). We've been told the towns of the Costa del Sol are much prettier than Malaga who's harbour is mostly dominated by shipping activity, but to be frank, our hotel room at the Molina Lario, the food (especially at the hotel's restaurant, El Cafe de Bolsa), the shops, the city's Christmas lights and the handful of Malaga's sights were enough to keep us in the city for the 5 days we were there.


Malaga is quite well-known for its lights during the Christmas season, but it is most well-known for being the birthplace of one of the world's most famous artists, Pablo Picasso. The city is quietly proud of this, with many of its cafes, streets and even the airport named after Picasso. We visited the Museo Picasso with almost 200 original pieces by Picasso, donated by his son and daughter-in-law.

Museo Picasso

A short walk away one can also visit Picasso's birthplace, Casa Natal. As it was the last Sunday of the month, both were free to enter (and the Museo is open till 8pm).

Casa Natal

Besides the Museo Picasso and Casa Natal, we also visited the Roman Treatre of Málaga. The Treatre is the oldest architecture to be found in the city, dating back to the first century BC, but only uncovered again in 1951.


And the neighbouring fortress La Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Both are perched on Mount Gibralfaro overlooking Malaga, once having the job of protecting the city.


It was a sunny day when we went to explore La Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro, and we loved the bricked fortress, the gardens, water features and winding pathways which we explored thoroughly.





After our visit, we climbed to the top of Mount Gibralfaro for some beautiful views across the city. Including a look down toward the Plaza de Toros (bull ring).





In town, our hotel was very close to the city's Cathedral, which we didn't enter, but did find quite commanding in size.


Our day of sight-seeing was the only sunny day for our trip, and much of the rest of the time in Malaga, it rained, especially on Christmas Day when the rain did not stop once. We celebrated Christmas with a big lunch at the hotel's El Cafe de Bolsa.


Its food has to be some of the best we have ever eaten. Not to mention the most inexpensive. And it just so happened, our room was right above the restaurant (see picture below of our two balconies).


We had tapas for lunch, ordered four dishes and found them to be more the size of mains. We tried our best to finish the fabulous food (that would be totaling 2 main dishes each!) and yes, of course we managed dessert as well. Our favourite dish (of all places we have ever been, except maybe our favourite local London restaurant The Modern Pantry) was the langostinos (king prawns). We can't tell you how wonderful this dish was, so you'll just to have to imagine with the photo below.


We spent hours at lunch, watching the rain fall outside from our window table at El Cafe de Bolsa. We were the only diners, besides a big family group who turned up later in the afternoon. It seems that Spaniards celebrate Christmas more on the Eve, rather than on the day. But still, nothing was open on Christmas Day, so after lunch we retreated to our wonderful room for a DVD marathon, including the entire first and second season of 30 Rock.


Every year, I'm always keen to head to the Boxing Day sales. I really dislike crowds when shopping, but the Boxing Day sales have become a yearly ritual for me, having worked behind the counter many times (at Esprit and Country Road in Sydney). So far, the ritual has extended to the cities of Sydney, NYC and London, but Malaga would be a bit different.

As it was still raining on Boxing Day, we took a taxi to the city's main shopping centre, only to find a very quiet day and no sales on. In Spain, the sales start in January, I was told. But that didn't stop us snapping up some new winter clothes.


We also shopped in the city centre and loved its little streets and boutiques.


The city streets were very-pedestrian friendly (ie. no cars) with tiled walkways full of shops, cafes and restaurants that would see lazy days, but come alive at night, especially along the main strip, and shopping areas, with their Christmas lights.


We took a few breaks for coffee and chocolate churros (a typical Spanish dessert). And only just squeezed everything into our luggage for our trip back to London.


When we returned, London was still as cold as it was when we left. We had a very low-key News Years Eve. We live very close to the Thames River, so at quarter-to-midnight we wondered down to the foreshore to watch the fireworks on the London Eye as the clock brought us into the new year.

New Years Eve 09/'10 in London

So that was our holiday season for 09/'10. Apologies it has taken 2 months to get onto the blog, but when we returned to London, I started writing the first draft of my PhD thesis. Over the months of January and February I wrote the bulk of the thesis, and we have since then, taken a short weekend trip to Belgium. But that blog post shall come shortly.

For now (while most likely a distant memory) hope you all had a wonderful holiday season and a fantastic new year. All the best for 2010 and we look forward to sharing more travel stories and photos with you right here at two drifters.

Wednesday, 29 July 2009

Good coffee in London

Ok, ok the title might seem like a bit of a contradiction after all the whinging Aussies in London do about the coffee here, but it's been awhile since we have been here and our list of decent coffee places is growing. For those coming over to visit, holiday or live, here's an essential list to finding good coffee in London (but for some management of expectations, it probably will taste a bit different from home).

Monmouth Coffee, Borough Markets and Covent Garden
We have to say this is our favourite coffee bean and one of our fave places to grab a good latte. Always so consistent in taste, stronger caffeine hit and really smooth froth. Have never had burnt milk a Monmouth which is a frequent crime of the chains (Costa, Nero, Starbucks etc.). Monmouth roast their own coffee which come from about a dozen places around the world including Africa and South America. Many other good coffee places around London use Monmouth's coffee (and I have forgotten which ones but do remember speaking to some baristas who mentioned they were using Monmouth). I love the Borough Market Monmouth. Have taken loads of Aussies here (even my bro David, who never drinks coffee but actually liked the coffee here- Mel's latte of course!). Have even taken some English and European friends here for meetings (designers love the shabby chic-ness). Covent Garden is always packed, but great for t/a before/after/during shopping the boutiques.

Cost per latte: £2.30
Size: "Normal" Oz sized take-away, but if you have in it's more a large Oz size.


Grace, St Pauls (links to Twitter)
We are pro-supporting local businesses (London is heaving with chains... food, cafes, restaurant, coffee places) and this is our "local" in the true sense of the word. We go to the sunny corner store, Grace, pretty much everyday to visit "coffee guy" and "coffee girl" (whom "coffee guy" recently recruited). Coffee is a pretty serious matter here. You can only get take-away (have to say don't quite support the polystyrene cups but the things you do for a decent latte!) and "coffee guy" maintains quite a lot of consistency, never burns the milk and gives us a strong dose of espresso delivered all in British earnest. There's a massive Gaggia, and you can choose medium, dark or organic roasts. You can also pick up some neat homemade treats, which we find really hard to bypass on a daily basis while waiting for our coffee.

Cost per latte: £1.50 (did we mention what a bargain this was for great coffee?)
Size: More a medium-large Oz size t/a



Nude Espresso, Spitalfields
Believe it or not, an English friend introduced me to this place. Lovely, bright and red, Nude does great coffee with a New Zealand smile. Located close to many design companies I know, Brick Lane, Spitalfields Markets and in vintage shop central it's also a great people-watching joint!

Cost per latte: £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in



Fernandez and Wells
In SoHo, F&W has been the place of quite a number of meetings for me. There are a few locations within walking distance, but I quite like the one of Beak Street (which is pictured below). Long wooden benches make good use of the small space, but that doesn't quite deter long meetings at F&W!

Cost per latte: Around £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in



Flat White, Soho
I think Flat White is the most famous among the Aussie community. Alongside Monmouth, it has one of the bigger cafe spaces and stepping inside makes us feel like we are back in Paddington, Sydney. It has such a similar atmosphere and interior and often makes me homesick (like it did last weekend when we were there). Flat White also serves great Aussie cafe food for breakfast and lunch.

Cost per latte: Around £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in or t/a


Lantana, Fiztrovia
Have not been to Lantana yet, but am meeting a friend there next week. My Aussie-living-and-working-in-London friend Myles, who authors her own food blog, Gourmet Safari (and here's a link to her own London coffee post) has been there and notifies me that Lantana do banana bread- a rare find in London! Can't wait to try Lantana coffee and banana bread next week. The cafe also does a neat blog called Scrambling Eggs.

Cost per latte: Around £2.30
Size: Normal Oz size if you have in

Some final words on good coffee in London....
You might have noticed that I have described coffee cup sizes. This is because most coffee you buy in London will come as massive servings (it makes Oz coffee look like babycinos for kids). While good value, most Aussies in London would choose quality over quantity any day. If you must go to a chain, we think Eat or Apostrophe do OK.

Also, most UK places don't know what a flat white is, so we'd recommend going for a latte (as cappuccinos are usually served with far too much bad froth).

As a final point to this post, some great person has plotted some good coffee places in London and around the UK. Great for all the UK travels. You can view the Google map here.


Some additional links on the subject matter of coffee in London:

Luke Bozier's blog post, 9 July 2009
In London Aussies and Kiwis do it better (coffee that is)

TimeOut London, 31 July 2009
Raising the bar - the independent cafes and Antipodean attitudes regenerating our coffee culture