First colonised by the Romans, Istanbul has a long and interesting history including numerous names. The city was first called Byzantine in 667 BC and then known in 330 as Constantinople ("City of Constantine") named after its Emperor. After several other designations, the city became known as Istanbul, but it was only in 1930 where the name was officially adopted.
Today Istanbul’s history is clearly evident through its historic sites like Hagia Sophia and Sultan Ahmed Mosque (or Blue Mosque) which flank the city. Both mosques are enormous in size and reflect the many cultures and religions which once inhabited the city through their layered interior. Istanbul is also a model for a modern Muslim society and has become quite the melting pot for cultures straddling both the European and Asian continent on either side of the Bosphorus Strait.
Hagia SophiaWe arrived in Istanbul before lunch at the Asmali Konak Hotel. We had a 20-minute chat over tea and coffee with the owner who gave us insider tips on how not to get ripped off in shops, restaurants and suggestions for things to do in Istanbul. We were then informed we would have to move hotels due to a major water leak which we sighted in what would have been quite a lovely room. Instead, we were taken to the plush, 4-star Aruna Hotel down the road. The hotel was brand new and while it didn’t have the character of Asmali, it had more luxuries such as a Jacuzzi in our bathroom.
Upon arriving at Aruna, we had another chat with the owner, who also handed us glass beads which look like eyes, a Turkish token which can be seen everywhere and people carry them to ensure someone is safely watching over them.
By the time we freshened up and took to the streets, it was time for a very late lunch. We took a tip from the locals at Asmali and visited Doy Doy, climbing to the fourth floor terrace with stunning views of the Blue Mosque and very cheap and very good food.
We were eating at 5pm when prayer time came around and the chants from the mosque bellowed through the air (see for yourself by clicking on the video below!).
In Istanbul, like an other Muslim country, prayer time happens 5 times a day. The first starts at 5am (and yes, clearly heard from our hotel due to its close proximity to the centre of the city). The last happens at 5pm. Until you hear the chants across the city, you wouldn’t guess 99% of Istanbul is Muslim. It is a relaxed society and very Westernised. Istanbul’s modern take probably has to do with a number of factors including its layered history, its geography straddling both Europe and Asia, and its intent to demonstrate to the world how a liberated Muslim society would look like. Istanbul is a melting pot of Eastern and Western cultures and many of the locals we got to meet had partners from around the world such as Asia and Australia.
Our hotel sent us on a free half-day tour on our second day in Istanbul. We wondered for three-quarters of the tour why we were getting the special treatment, and when we visited our final destination, a carpet showroom, we knew we had become part of the selling process for Turkish carpets! But till then we had quite a good time with our lovely guide and driver who chauffeured us around Istanbul with our first stop at the Egyptian (or Spice) Bazaar.
Bazaars are wonderfully colourful markets constantly full of people browsing textiles, glass beads, piles of nuts, nougat, mosaic lamps and mounds of spices.
The rain started to come down and we decided to forgo the planned Bosphorus cruise and spend time touring Istanbul by car, visiting the waterfront suburbs and bridges. Back in town we walked through the Blue Mosque, Artisan Bazaar and ended our tour with apple tea on the terrace of the carpet showroom with views across the harbour and toward the Blue Mosque.
We politely declined a carpet purchase and breathed easy when we were left with the rest of the day to ourselves!
The sun was now out in full force and we had a lovely lunch while laughing over our naivety in accepting a free tour (we had honestly thought the hotel was trying to apologise for moving us from our first choice!).
As the sun was out we ventured into the hive of activity between the two mosques. We found our way to the Yerebatan Sarayi (or Basilica Cistern ) the underground cistern which used to irrigate the gardens of Byzantine. Our guidebook notes that there are as many as 60 of these underground cisterns in Istanbul, but Yerebatan Sarayi is the largest of all.
The Yerebatan Sarayi constantly drips water as you enter the underground forest of marble columns and arches. From below, the dim red lights illuminate the eerie fish that swim at your feet. Yerebatan Sarayi is one of the most unique sights in Istanbul, and some may recognize it from the James Bond movie, From Russia with With Love.
Popping up from underground we found ourselves in the sun and among the tourists which swarmed around the Hagia Sophia. To be honest, we were a bit put off my the number of people around the mosque and hesitated to visit, but making the executive decision to brave the crowds, we would have severely regretted not seeing one of the most interesting places of worship in the whole of Europe.
The mosque was constructed Before Christ and was originally a Christian Church. One can view the hints of this in the art that still remains on the ceiling and walls, half covered by Muslim art and scriptures. Sofia is enormous, but when you look at her detail, the layers become apparent and absolutely fascinating to consider how the city and its people have changed over the centuries.
Just up the road from the mosques and cistern is the Grand Bazaar. Another Bazaar which is bigger than the Egyptian Bazaar and a little more expensive.
We toured the numerous stores, picked up a few things (like apple tea) and got roped in (again!) to a carpet sales room only because we were admiring the Australian flag which was being woven as a carpet out the front. We enjoyed more apple tea with the owner and again declined a carpet purchase. We felt like we were now experts at the game!
We wondered back into town and through the peaceful Gülhane Park before heading toward our hotel to find dinner.
We chose the Rumis Café for dinner. We learned that the place was new and had only just opened. We found the staff wonderfully accommodating, even getting a lesson behind the bar on how to make Turkish coffee. Turkish coffee is a strong, dark brown liquid which smells like a wood fire. It was made and enjoyed by the Ottomans who once inhabited Istanbul. We purchased some coffee and later went back to the Egyptian Bazaar to get a copper coffee maker (which we are yet to try out back in London!).
Old Egyptian BazaarAfter dinner, we booked a treatment at a hotel spa. We started in a steam room and then had a body scrub and massage on marble in the middle of main treatment room by a burly Turkish bloke that didn’t speak much English. We finished our treatments wrapped in towels sipping apple tea.
The next day we did a full day tour which included a cruise on the Bosphorus. Unfortunately the first half of the tour felt like a bit of a waste. It took ages to co-ordinate tourists on the buses and we were taken to a look out point with a cable car ride down to the street level which wasn’t all that exciting, but we did enjoy the views.
We finally got to the cruise and this really made up for the disappointing morning. We had a small-ish boat with only about a dozen people. The day was clear and sunny and the cruise went for about 2 hours on the blue waters of the Bosphorus. We saw palaces such as the Ciragan Palace, fortresses such as Rumeli Fortress, bridges, boats, mansions and the metropolis of Istanbul from the water.
Bosphorus Bridge
Ciragan Palace
The Sultan's Winter Palace
View of Bebek from the harbourHopping off the boat, we decided to visit the chic suburb of Bebek. On our private tour, we had driven through Bebek and our Wallpaper Guide had recommended Mangerie, what we came to recognize as the Bathers Pavilion of Istanbul. Mangerie is on the top floor of a rather non-descript building, so it was not easy to find, but the café had wonderful food, coffee and views! While the interior was really nice, we were lucky enough to score a table on the terrace with views to the water and down to the boutique-lined street.
We met another couple from London who had walked to Mangerie from a few suburbs away, so after lunch we decided to walk part of the way back toward the city, passing beautiful parks, fishermen and street markets. We hailed a cab when we began to tire and were thankful we did as going through the roads near the football stadium was a bit intimidating. Crazy football fans had taken over the streets and let off small fire crackers in anticipation of the game.
We arrived back at the hotel for our last night in the city and took a recommendation from the concierge to dine at the local fish restaurant just a few minutes walk down the road. We had to enter through the restaurant kitchen to get to our table! We enjoyed the infamous sea bass and lovely Turkish sweets which I have not mentioned that we had been indulging in throughout our trip, along with the smoky Turkish coffee.
We were sad to leave Istanbul. It certainly was intriguing and quirky. Things happen that make you wonder what really goes on in this city under the colourful tourist sheen. A first brief visit gives you that small taste and sense that there are many other layers to be explored. That’s the magic of Istanbul and it makes you promise to be back someday for more.
