Saturday, 5 April 2008

Cold, Cold Copenhagen

For the Easter long weekend, we set off out of London to the fabulous city of Copenhagen. Getting from London to Stansted Airport takes double the time than the 1 hour 45 minute flight to Copenhagen itself, but after a late cab, Tubes, trains and another cab later we arrived at the Copenhagen Island Hotel, our accommodation for the next 4 nights.



The hotel and our room was a first taste of the design-orientated city of Copenhagen. As you can see below, the Danes do love their furniture design and interior details.



On Good Friday we woke up excited to explore what one designer described to me as his "most favourite city in the world." We think the only downside to Copenhagen it that it is an incredibly expensive city, even more so than London. The other thing that surprised us was how cold Copenhagen was in what is considered the first month of Spring. But then again, there seemed to be a cold snap across Europe over that Easter weekend because back in the UK, snow was falling.

We found a lovely place called Cafe Square for breakfast on Friday. The menus only read in Danish, so we randomly ordered some dishes only to find huge square brunches appeared before us, kind of like an antipasto plates of breakfast goodies! We dug in happily after our cold walk over and let the hot coffee warm and awaken our insides.



After rolling out of Café Square, we walked through the city to find that most shops were closed for the day, so we visited the Danish Design Centre.



The Danish Design Centre is the Design Council of Denmark and houses a shop, café, conference facilities and exhibition spaces.



It’s a small fee to enter to see the exhibitions. The main exhibition celebrates Danish design, especially Denmark’s renowned architects, furniture and jewellery designers. We explored the other exhibitions and browsed the shop before leaving.

The next place we came across was just around the corner, and it was the massive National Museet. The museum was the former residence of the Royal family and too many rooms to count, full of historical artefacts from Denmark and all over the world. There was also a children’s museum of toys. The museum has free admission, and when you leave, you'll no doubt feel completely overwhelmed by information!



The afternoon was wearing on so we decided to start making our way back to the hotel as it was a good 15 minute walk from the city centre.



One the way back we checked out the Royal Library, named the Black Diamond, for its shimmering black glass façade on the edge of one of Copenhagen’s canals. It was closed for the day, so we walked around admiring the architecture.



As it was so cold, we didn't venture out for dinner, and stayed in at the enveloping warmth of our hotel room to watch movies, read and relax.

Saturday saw the shops open for trading, but we did some sightseeing before getting retail therapy. We took a bus to the northern part of the city, to a star-shaped island surrounded by canals called Kastellet. We still haven’t quite figured out what Kastellet is and how the church , army barracks, bronze sculptures and an isolated gourmet deli with a huge wine cellar, all fit together.


One of Copenhagen’s most famous tourist attractions is The Little Mermaid. A bronze sculpture inspired by the book, The Little Mermaid, by Hans Christian Andersen
(which is also now a Disney movie). We had been warned that the mermaid is as she was named- little. But she was a pretty sculpture, seated on a rock in the water, with an unfortunate backdrop of shipping yards.



It was absolutely freezing and we cold feel the temperatures drop even lower so we decided to hunt for a café to grab a coffee. On our walk out of Kastellet, we found the cutest café ever, Kafferiet.



Kafferiet does take away coffees in pretty pink cups, stocks shelves of adorable lollies, has bowls of tiny stickers one can take, saying things like ‘Behind every successful person… is a substantial amount of coffee’, and of course lovely coffee.



When we left Kafferiet, we had only been walking for about 300m when snow started to fall! And a lot of it.



We ducked into the first Museum we came across, the Kunst Industri Museet, or the Danish Museum of Art and Design.



Again, a huge museum, with lots of artefacts to see, tracing the decades of design. Furniture design featured highly, especially the Arne Jacobsen classics.



The snow was still falling but we continued walking along the long avenues. Along the way we passed many art galleries and furniture shops, where windows displayed the design icons and classics we had just seen in the Museum only these were for purchase. It was quite amazing really, to have the opportunity and accessibility to museum pieces, for one's own home.

We made our way back into Copenhagen city centre, passing a pretty special looking church called, Frederiks Kirke.



By the time we reached the city centre we were starving, partly from the walk and mostly from the cold. We found our way to a very popular site, Nybrogade, a canal flanked by colourful pubs and lined with fishing boats.



There were so many choices of pubs, but we settled on one whose intimate interior paid homage to the fishing and boating history of the area. It ended up being a great choice, especially for fish and chips, because even now when we look at the photo, our mouths water.



The food hit the spot and we felt revived and ventured out to the shops.



In the centre of the city one can find the most popular row of flagships stores. The first is jewellery manufacturer, Georg Jensen’s 3-storey flagship store, inclusive of a small museum in the basement. A must, to pay respect to the infamous jewellery house and see on display its iconic silver jewellery.



Next door is, Royal Copenhagen, the world-famous brand of hand-painted porcelain and china, all of which is beautifully presented and almost always buzzing with people.



Finally, the homeware institution, Illums Bolighus, where you can find the best homeware and furniture design sourced from Denmark and Europe.



While we didn't take home any silver or homewares, we did pick up some things from the department store, Magasin, and shoes from the Dutch brand Ecco. We finished up our day out at K Bar, as recommended by our trusty Wallpaper City Guide.



We have been starting to use the Wallpaper City Guides on all our trips, and find their recommendations for architecture, bars, eateries, attractions, hotels etc. of both quality and great interest. The maps inside are a really helpful introductions before we arrive, and so are the details such how much a taxi from the airport to the city might cost. One of the neatest things about these Guides are that they are slim and A5 in size, meaning they are light and easy to carry around.



The write up in the Guide of K Bar was that they were masters of martinis and cocktails. We tried a Tiramisu cocktail of velvety liquid topped with biscuit crumbs, along with some bar snacks.



Back at the hotel, we settled in for the evening. The snow had melted and the sky above Copenhagen city looked like it was finally clearing.