Tuesday, 2 March 2010

Winter in Brussels and Brugge

Europe was still in the deep winter when we hopped on the Eurostar for a weekend in Brussels, Belgium. We stayed at the grand Hotel Le Plaza, with lofty ceiling and gilded interiors, the hotel had a lovely old worldly feel.


Much like Spain during Christmas, we planned a relaxing weekend of eating, shopping and sight-seeing. As one knows, Belgium is quite famous for a number of cuisines, and of course beer. And yes, we did indulge over the weekend in lots of chocolate, moules frites (mussels and fries), beer and Belgian waffles. Luckily, the hotel had a gym, but somehow doubt that burned as many calories as we consumed! Thursday was our first full day in Brussels, and after breakfast in the grand breakfast room we took to the streets of Brussels.


The temperature in Brussels was a fair bit cooler than London, and it snowed a lot over the weekend. But it was lovely to see fresh snow fall. Our hotel was located right across the road from the city's main shopping strip (the Pitt Street Mall of Brussels) with all the well-known European high-street brands.


Like this massive Zara store.


We found our way to the historic square of Brussels, the Grand Place (French) or Grote Market (Dutch) which is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site. The square was overshadowed by the city's town hall, Hotel de Ville Stadhais (below).


And surrounded by grand architecture.


Of intricate detail.


Just off the square was the Museum of Cocoa and Chocolate which we visited briefly (among several school excursions).


Lunch was spent at a cosy pub on the Grand Palace Grote Market, by an open fire before we took to sampling the chocolate shops.


We are no stranger to Belgian chocolates, often indulging at our favourite Belgian chocolate store, Leonidas on Fleet Street in London. We weren't quite prepared for the sheer number of chocolate stores dotted around Brussels (and there were even more in Brugge!). After picking up a few chocolates and some beer, we walked further around the city. We found the Galeries Saint Hubert an arcade with a long glass-domed ceiling (and more chocolate shops).


Then passed the snow-covered Brussels Square surrounded by fascinating architecture.


Such as the the glass cube which is the Square Brussels Meeting Centre.


Walking past the Palais Royal, the official residence of the Royal Family, we popped into the Parc de Bruxelles (French) or Warandepark (Dutch), the park across the road which was pretty empty and snow-covered.


We then found our way to the centre of Europe. Well the centre of European policy, the European Union (EU) Commission. It's commanding architecture was commanding, but unfortunately closed after lunch time on Fridays.


But we still enjoyed a short visit to the home of the Eurocrats, as Geoff calls them.


The temperatures were cooling significantly and we decided to hole up in our lovely and warm hotel room with some gourmet food from the local deli (below) and cheese shop.


The next day, we took a train to Brugge, just an hour away from Brussels.


Bruge is the smaller, but prettier sister. It's winding cobbled streets were lined with well-kept medieval architecture, housing shops, cafes and restaurants. Brugge was quite touristy, but as it was winter it wasn't too crowded (or maybe we're used to lots of crowds in London). We sampled loads of chocolate shops (again).


But Chocolat Oe Praline (below) and Juliettes (further down the same street, Wollestraat, but on the opposite side) were our favourites.


We also visited the 2be store which sold literally hundreds of beers.


Finishing out day in Brugge with a long lunch at De Gastro.


On our last day in Belgium, most of the stores were closed as it was Sunday. Most of the life in the city congregates in the area around the church, Eglise Sainte Catherine. We found Cafe de Markten, a pretty non-descript cafe from the outside, but a lovely and airy cafe on the inside.


Our final stop before heading back to the hotel was Caffe Tasse for rich hot chocolates to warm up on the wintery afternoon. And to pick up (more) beautifully packaged chocolates for our return to London.


It was onto the Eurostar back to London. Before filing up to the platform to the waiting train, we found this sign particularly amusing telling us, 'This way to London'.

Sunday, 21 February 2010

Christmas in Malaga, Spain

It never ceases to amaze us that in under 3 hours from London, we can be dropped into an entirely different culture and the weather can change dramatically.

So, OK for most of our time in Malaga, a port town on the south coast of Spain, the rain fell, but we did see some beautiful sun and relished the much milder winter temperatures of around 15 degrees Celsius (for the record, Winter 09/'10 in the UK has been the coldest it has been in three decades).

Snow at St Pauls Cathedral, London

Our Xmas '09 break was to escape chilly and snowy London for some R&R and we were quite happy to stay put in Malaga, the main gateway to the beachy Costa del Sol (meaning Coast of the Sun). We've been told the towns of the Costa del Sol are much prettier than Malaga who's harbour is mostly dominated by shipping activity, but to be frank, our hotel room at the Molina Lario, the food (especially at the hotel's restaurant, El Cafe de Bolsa), the shops, the city's Christmas lights and the handful of Malaga's sights were enough to keep us in the city for the 5 days we were there.


Malaga is quite well-known for its lights during the Christmas season, but it is most well-known for being the birthplace of one of the world's most famous artists, Pablo Picasso. The city is quietly proud of this, with many of its cafes, streets and even the airport named after Picasso. We visited the Museo Picasso with almost 200 original pieces by Picasso, donated by his son and daughter-in-law.

Museo Picasso

A short walk away one can also visit Picasso's birthplace, Casa Natal. As it was the last Sunday of the month, both were free to enter (and the Museo is open till 8pm).

Casa Natal

Besides the Museo Picasso and Casa Natal, we also visited the Roman Treatre of Málaga. The Treatre is the oldest architecture to be found in the city, dating back to the first century BC, but only uncovered again in 1951.


And the neighbouring fortress La Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Both are perched on Mount Gibralfaro overlooking Malaga, once having the job of protecting the city.


It was a sunny day when we went to explore La Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro, and we loved the bricked fortress, the gardens, water features and winding pathways which we explored thoroughly.





After our visit, we climbed to the top of Mount Gibralfaro for some beautiful views across the city. Including a look down toward the Plaza de Toros (bull ring).





In town, our hotel was very close to the city's Cathedral, which we didn't enter, but did find quite commanding in size.


Our day of sight-seeing was the only sunny day for our trip, and much of the rest of the time in Malaga, it rained, especially on Christmas Day when the rain did not stop once. We celebrated Christmas with a big lunch at the hotel's El Cafe de Bolsa.


Its food has to be some of the best we have ever eaten. Not to mention the most inexpensive. And it just so happened, our room was right above the restaurant (see picture below of our two balconies).


We had tapas for lunch, ordered four dishes and found them to be more the size of mains. We tried our best to finish the fabulous food (that would be totaling 2 main dishes each!) and yes, of course we managed dessert as well. Our favourite dish (of all places we have ever been, except maybe our favourite local London restaurant The Modern Pantry) was the langostinos (king prawns). We can't tell you how wonderful this dish was, so you'll just to have to imagine with the photo below.


We spent hours at lunch, watching the rain fall outside from our window table at El Cafe de Bolsa. We were the only diners, besides a big family group who turned up later in the afternoon. It seems that Spaniards celebrate Christmas more on the Eve, rather than on the day. But still, nothing was open on Christmas Day, so after lunch we retreated to our wonderful room for a DVD marathon, including the entire first and second season of 30 Rock.


Every year, I'm always keen to head to the Boxing Day sales. I really dislike crowds when shopping, but the Boxing Day sales have become a yearly ritual for me, having worked behind the counter many times (at Esprit and Country Road in Sydney). So far, the ritual has extended to the cities of Sydney, NYC and London, but Malaga would be a bit different.

As it was still raining on Boxing Day, we took a taxi to the city's main shopping centre, only to find a very quiet day and no sales on. In Spain, the sales start in January, I was told. But that didn't stop us snapping up some new winter clothes.


We also shopped in the city centre and loved its little streets and boutiques.


The city streets were very-pedestrian friendly (ie. no cars) with tiled walkways full of shops, cafes and restaurants that would see lazy days, but come alive at night, especially along the main strip, and shopping areas, with their Christmas lights.


We took a few breaks for coffee and chocolate churros (a typical Spanish dessert). And only just squeezed everything into our luggage for our trip back to London.


When we returned, London was still as cold as it was when we left. We had a very low-key News Years Eve. We live very close to the Thames River, so at quarter-to-midnight we wondered down to the foreshore to watch the fireworks on the London Eye as the clock brought us into the new year.

New Years Eve 09/'10 in London

So that was our holiday season for 09/'10. Apologies it has taken 2 months to get onto the blog, but when we returned to London, I started writing the first draft of my PhD thesis. Over the months of January and February I wrote the bulk of the thesis, and we have since then, taken a short weekend trip to Belgium. But that blog post shall come shortly.

For now (while most likely a distant memory) hope you all had a wonderful holiday season and a fantastic new year. All the best for 2010 and we look forward to sharing more travel stories and photos with you right here at two drifters.

Tuesday, 22 December 2009

Summer and nostalgia in Sydney

After Singapore, I had a wonderful 2.5 weeks visiting home in Sydney. I arrived on the morning of Mum's birthday, with mine following the day after, lugging a suitcase full of Chrissy presents. It was great to be able to celebrate birthdays with the family, albeit slightly jet lagged at dinner!


It's been over a year since I have been back and it was great to see family and friends again, bask under the warm sunshine, head to the sandy beaches, swim in the blue-green ocean, eat out at some favourite places and also meet the newest addition to the family, Pepper!


Pepper is Mel and David's 4-month old puppy, a shi tzu x pug with a ball of energy and a fondness for Country Road tote bags.

Pepper ♥ Country Road totes

I have loads of photos (some of which you might have already seen on Facebook) so I won't write a lot here but will mention that the one word I find sums up my time back in Sydney is nostalgia.

Maybe we have been away for so long now (2.5 years and counting) that coming back evokes such a strong sense nostalgia. It was lovely to relive this, but also see how much Sydney has progressed. I was surprised to find how unaffected Sydney was to global recession. It was a stark contrast to our observations this time last year in London. One thing Australia seemed to share with the UK, however, was the shambles the Government was in while I was home!

But enough said, here are some photos from my summer in Sydney.

Bee-lining to the beach the day I landed in Sydney. Could not have been a more beautiful day for lunch at Bronte Beach with Dad

A visit to the One Noffs store Mel volunteers her time to each week to support the Ted Noffs Foundation and young Australian fashion designers

Pepper sinks her teeth into one of her Chrissy presents from London

Bathers Pavilion at Balmoral is one of my favourite places in Sydney

Birthday brunch with Aunty Kew a Bathers

Bumping into another visitor to Sydney... Adam! What were the odds of being at the same place, on the same day, at same time having flown in from Geneva and London? Weren't we just in Geneva a moment ago??

The ARIA Awards at the Acer Arena on the night of my birthday. Truly impressed by Aussie musical talent...

... Like Empire of the Sun (above), Lisa Mitchell and The Temper Trap (click on the names to view their live performances at the ARIAs)

... And guest start, Robbie Williams (click to view Robbie live at the ARIAs)

Mel with her beautiful handmade wares at her market stall in Balmain. Check out her online store here before they all disappear!

Lunch on the water at China Doll, Woolloomooloo

Time with Mum at Bondi Beach, post a morning at the day-spa

Lunch at Speedo Cafe, Bondi Beach

With my grandparents, Mel and Mum

Lunch with Aunty June and Mel in Glebe

Have missed these family dinners lots!

Visiting my old uni, UTS for the opening night of Republic of Design, the 2009 design degree shows

Brunch with the Millers at Rozelle

Taking Pepper to Bronte Beach with Mel

Swimming at Bronte pool

A Sydney latte, served up with a famous Australian emblem!

With Cindy on her Hen's Night. Congrats to Cindy and Mal on their marriage this month, 17/12/09 in New Zealand

Sharing a few drinks with Trinh at the Ivy in Sydney City. Can't say there are many places in the world where you get served drinks by a waitress in her swimmers and Haviana thongs/flip flops. Congrats to Trinh and Harry on their marriage this month, 12/12/09 in Sydney

The last supper at Stir Crazy Thai, Neutral Bay

A final night in Sydney

The photos only show a small part of my time in Sydney. There were many more great memories with family, old friends and new ones. Thanks everyone for a wonderful visit home, and thanks to you for sharing another year of life, travel, work and study on our Two Drifters blog. Have a Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and Happy Holidays. See you in 2010!